Exploring Zululand and the Wetlands

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We entered the Kwa-Zulu Natal region upon leaving Underberg.  Our first stop was at Pietermaritzburg, a bustling and large city on the plains.  Our stop was at the Kwa-Zulu Natal Museum where we explored the history of the region and learned a bit more about the Zulu Nation, the Boer Wars, and the Anglo Zulu war.  There was a fine exhibit on the life of Nelson Mandela as well.

From there is was a short drive to Durban.  An hour later we were in the high hills of Durban, immersed in a tropical jungle-like environment.  We chose an Airbnb in the quiet neighborhood of Westville, about five miles west of the city center.  Our four-bedroom rental for three nights was large, and everyone got their own room.  An older home, it was in good repair and offered us a nice retreat for the next few days.

Our first full day in Durban was spent visiting the Victoria Market, a tourist market with loads of shops.  Durban has one of the largest Indian populations outside of India and that was evident on the streets.  It was a Saturday and the streets were teeming with crowds.  The Sprinkbok Rugby Champs were in town zig-zagging the city center on route to a fan rally at the stadium.  I was pretty chaotic for a few hours.  We each found a few things worth bartering over and walked away with a stunning Zulu inspired mask.

We wandered over to the other city market and had lunch at the famous Oriental Restuarant.  This Durban landmark is Indian owned...as are most restaurants in town.  The food was delicious and the staff was very nice.

 For our second day in Durban we drove over to the Shaka Marine Park.  It is a "Sea World" type attraction with whale shows, etc.  We did not visit the park, put used their secure parking lot and access to the beach.  From there we walked South Beach all the way up to the Suncoast Casino.  It was a three mile walk and near the poos there were thousands of locals on the beach and boardwalk.  It started out as a sunny day on the rain began as we entered the casino...so good timing.

The casino is in a large shopping mall and the sole purpose of our visit was to find someplace that served "Bunny Chow."  This was Hans' adventure and he was determined.  Our Airbnb neighbor had advised him that this was the best place to get it and that "every" restaurant served it.  After stopping at EVERY restaurant in the mall, there was none to be had.  Finally, we were directed to the hotel itself and the lobby cafe...ah success.  A half-loaf of white bread, scooped out the make a bowl - the "bunny"- and chicken curry...the "chow."  It was tasty and filling and Hans' mission was accomplished.

We departed Durban early for a visit to Shakaland.  This is a recreated village that was a movie set for a long running TV series in the 80's.  It was authentic enough and the closest thing so far we had found to some traditinal Zulu experience.  We spent a couple of hours that included a really nice African style buffet lunch.

The highlight of the visit was the drumming, singing, and dancing.

Later that day we made our way to the coast once again and the Village of St. Lucia.  We were in the heartland of the wetlands area and found our three-bedroom condo fully equipped and comfortable...complete with hippos and crocs in the gardens.

We settled in for our four nights.  We were up at 4AM the next day for a full day safari in Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park.  It was an hour drive to the park, a nice light breakfast was served at one of the secure picnic spots and then lots of game viewing, a huge braai lunch with steak and sausage, and then more game viewing.  The highlight was the rhino.

The next day we had another full safari, this time of the wetlands.  We took a break in the afternoon and then headed out that same night for a very late, night safari.  Wow, it was a long day with lots to see...even in the dark.   In between the day and night rides we had room to make a fried chicken dinner, Texas style.

 The highlight of the day tour was happening up this monitor lizard.  He had mounted a dung beetle mound and was devouring them.  They were actually walking right into his mouth.  Our guide was so impressed, he took out his camera.  We were there for almost 30 minutes.

The following day we booked "an authentic" Zulu village experience about ten minutes away.  It was only $15 per person and was something to do.  We were no disappointed.  It was infinitely more authentic and personal than the Skaland staged event.